THAILAND DEEP WATER SOLOING

By Matt Maddaloni

Thailand Deep Water SoloingThailand's Phra Nang Peninsula is world renowned for warm water, tropical sandy beaches, palm trees, bamboo bungalows and friendly local people. And now... deep water soloing. There are 100 routes already established with hundreds of possibilities waiting to be discovered. The limestone islands protrude from the Phrang Nga Bay like citadels from a fantasy novel. The rock is that perfect gold and grey limestone with many tufa lines and huge stalactites hanging from the overhanging walls like wax dripping from candles.

In 2004 Tim Emmet, Neil Gresham and Mike Weeks from the UK put up the first documented deep water soloing routes near Railay Peninsula. It was on that trip that they introduced Matt Maddaloni to the sport, the author of the first DWS guidebook for the area. Matt has visited the islands on five major trips and has put up about half the routes. "Thailand Deep Water Soloing" is available at www.mattmaddaloni.com

Image of Ralai Peninsula area

Phra Nang Peninsula

Tonsai beach near the town of Krabi is a magic place for climbers. The beach consists of only climbers in an area with about 20 resorts. Tonsai beach is definitely the best place to use as a home base for exploring all the areas listed in the guide. The boatmen already have experience getting climbers onto the walls and Tonsai beach is tuned in on climbers needs such as having about 4 or 5 different climbing stores.

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Image of Poda Island and Chicken Island area

Poda Island and Chicken Island

These set of islands take about 30 minutes to get to by long tail. Boatmen expect to be out for about 4 hours respectively. Make sure to watch the tide intervals to maximize your time climbing. You want to hit high tide about halfway during your 4 - 6 hour trip. The ocean undercuts a lot of routes and low tide can make it near impossible to get on the rock. Ko Rang Kai, The Playdium and Ao Nang tower are the best spots to climb if you're new to the sport. They have big ledges to start from and a selection of easier routes. Tidal Wave Wall, Ko Ma Tang Ming and Spider Man Wall all offer moderate to hard routes to test your skill. For new route potential check out Sunset Wall, Tidal Wave Wall, Chuk Wao arete on Spiderman Wall, Ko Ya Wa Bon, Ko Ma Tang Ming and Ko Ya Wa Sam.


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Ko Phi Phi area

Ko Phi Phi

Ko Phi Phi Don has a lot of sport climbing and has been developed towards climber needs for many years. It is a great escape from the limited urban activities of Tonsai. Phi Phi has many resorts, way more restaurants and lots of extra stuff to do at night. You can get a ferry from Railay, Ao Nang or Tonsai beach direct to the town of Phi Phi. It takes about 2 hours. Nui Bay has the highest concentration of deep water soloing routes. The rock is very pockety and has that perfect slightly overhanging gold and light gray limestone. To get there find a boatman on Lohdalum Bay to take you out. Takes about 10 minutes.

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Image of Phi Phi lei area

Phi Phi Lei

The large island south of Ko Phi Phi Don has no permanent civilization and is covered by jungles that are surrounded by sea cliffs. The potential here for new routes is endless but the rock tends to be very blank. Maya Bay has yielded some new route development but nothing has been completed yet. It is worth heading out on a long tail and spending a couple of hours hunting new routes. The islands north of Phi Phi Don have nothing to offer for DWS and the Bida's south of Phi Phi Lei are made of decomposing rock but they do offer some of Thailand's best snorkeling.

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