NEWS
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OUT WHAT HAPPENED AT THE 2007 DWS FESTIVAL DWS festival date confirmed |
UK Deep Water Soloing festival July
28th Mike Weeks from X1 Sports has confirmed a date for the 2007 Deep Water Soloing Festival in Pembroke. Mike had this to say: The MOD, Parks and local conservation groups have kindly allowed us permission to hold the fest at Newton Head on July 28th. There will be allocated DWS parking just before the St Govans car park. Please use this to prevent overcrowding. Safety boats, paramedics and the world's largest team of spotters will be on hand but please remember that DWS is dangerous and not really worth the risk. Toilets will be provided at the gated entrance to the range on the Saturday. Directions to the party will be given out on the day. There will be parking, camping, food and music until sunrise all for a fiver. Anyone wishing to enter into the speed comp (limited to twelve places) should email us before hand: info@x1sports.com. God has personally guarenteed us great weather so please send her a thankyou letter! DWS Festival - Pembroke, © Mike Weeks |
JULY 2007 |
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DWS ban in the US | Deep Water Soloing gets a ban in the US Our friends in the US have sent through some disturbing news concerning a recent ban on deep water soloing at Summersville Lake in West Virginia. Bernard Exley, our US dws guru had this to say: "Some interesting developments on Summersville Lake, I was chatting with someone at the gunks yesterday who told me he'd heard some gossip that there was a ban on jumping and diving at the lake. They have just introduced a new law with up to $5000 fine for anyone jumping or diving into the lake from higher than their own body height! This is mainly aimed at the drunkards that jump off the cliffs and hurt themselves rather than the climbers but it still applies to DWS unless you down climb which obviously isn't too easy! The ban only came in 4 weeks ago so not much info". The ban came into effect on May 25, 2007, and the official press release can be found here: http://www.lrh.usace.army.mil/Announcements/ |
JUNE 2007 |
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Mallorcan Psicobloc 2nd edition | Mallorcan
Psicobloc 2nd edition is coming this summer!!! Daimon had this to say about his new guide: It's much bigger than the last guide with 9 or so areas in total. Many are appearing here for the first time and some of the previous areas from Mallorcan Psicobloc V1.0 have seen large updates. We're also dropping the name Mallorcan Psicobloc and simply calling it 'Mallorca Deep Water Soloing'. It's taken a lot of work and effort and much longer to produce that I had original hoped. But I'm very pleased with how this one looks and I hope other people will think so to. Cover of the new 'Mallorca Deep Water Soloing' |
JUNE 2007 |
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'Deep Water' out now!!! | Rockfax 'Deep Water' guide out now!!! The new Deep Water guide by Mike Robertson arrived in the shops this week, so go get your copy today! The guide covers everything there is to know about UK and European DWS venues. In addition is a chapter giving a glimpse into what else is on offer around the world. The main venues covered are: Swanage, Lulworth, Portland, Devon, Cornwall, Pembroke, North Wales, Scotland, Portugal, Costa Blanca and Mallorca. 'Deep Water' is available from all major climbing book shops and online, priced at £20.95 www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=132 Rockfax 'Deep Water' guide © Rockfax 2007 |
JUNE 2007 |
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Magazine publicity | Deep Water Publicity There has been a lot of publicity this month surrounding the release of Mike Robertson's Deep Water Guide. Firstly is a massive article in July's edition of Climber (UK), by Mike Robertson, www.climber.co.uk. Mike takes you on whirlwind tour of the many venues available in his new guide. The article is also accompanied by some excellent photos which should get you psyched for this seasons DWS. (If it ever stops raining)!!!!! Mike also has an article in July's Climb Magazine, www.climbmagazine.com, covering his old stomping grounds in Dorset. Last but not least is this article on UKC 'So you want to go deep water soloing' www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=469. This is a short guide for novice Deep Water Soloers who wish to give it a try. July's edition of Climber Magazine (UK) © Warners Group Publications PLC 2007 |
JUNE 2007 |
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DWS festival | UK Deep Water Soloing festival There will be a DWS festival in Pembroke this year. Mike Weeks will confirm the exact date on his X1 website nearer the time. But until then all we can say is that it will most probably be in July now. News so far states that there will be a mega ticking session through out the day (Saturday) followed by a night time speed competition for twelve climbers. A party will follow with a possible Red Bull sound system and BBQ. Sunday is a free-for-all and a visit to a new crag in north Pembroke. |
JUNE 2007 |
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Psicobloc film | New Mallorca Psicobloc film Mind to motion a Mallorcan based production company have just released a 30min film on Psicobloc climbing in Mallorca. The film 'Psico Analisis 06' focuses more on what Psicobloc means to individuals more than the activity its self. It features Toni Lamprecht, Alex Huber, Chris Sharma and Miquel Riera and is free download (better quality version) from their website. www.mind2motion.es |
APRIL 2007 |
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New Rockfax guide | Rockfax guide - 'Deep Water' - May 2007 Mike Robertson's deep water soloing guide to the world has been officially named 'Deep Water'. The Rockfax guide is due for publication in May 2007 and will host info on the following venues: Swanage, Lulworth, Portland, Devon, Cornwall, Pembroke, North Wales, Scotland, Portugal, Costa Blanca, Mallorca, Sardinia, Thailand, Vietnam and Tasmania. www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=132 Cover of the new Rockfax guide due May 2007 - 'Deep Water' |
JANUARY 2007 |
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Psicobloc article | Psicobloc: Mallorca How high — and how hard — are you willing to push it ropeless above the waves? Chris Sharma and friends visit Mallorca, Spain, the world’s deep-water soloing paradise, in search of an answer. Plus: Es Pontas arch, Sharma’s ultimate Psicobloc project. See October’s edition of Climbing Magazine for the full story! http://climbing.com/print/current/252/ Story and Photos by Boone Speed |
OCTOBER 2006 |
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Chris Sharma does the Arch Project in Mallorca |
Deep water soloing gets harder!!! Chris Sharma has recently ascended the world's hardest deep water solo. Possible a contender for the grade 9a, the route climbs the arch of 'Es Pontas' on the south east coast of Mallorca. Chris has been working this line since late 2005 and has been returning to the island as often as possible to attempt it. Eventually the 7 foot dyno was stuck and a finish was made via the seaward side of the arch at the grade of 7c+ / 8a . Not satisfied with this finish, Chris wanted to ascend a harder line which would then cross the under belly of the arch to the landward side. This made an incredibly difficult 70 foot solo. Each attempt was tried ground up, as the arch was so steep and obviously has no bolts to hang on. On September 26th 2006 and with well over 80 attempts made, Chris eventually made the first assent of the arch project. Big Up productions have been there every step of the way recording his every move. Read the full story and check out the footage of Chris attempting the arch project at the Big Up website's extras section. www.bigupproductions.com Image: Chris Sharma on The Arch, Es Pontas, Mallorca © Brett Lowell, Sep 2006 (UKCLIMBING) |
SEPTEMBER 26th 2006 |
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Neil Gresham in Lundy | Neil Gresham has soloed 'The Flying Dutchman'
in Lundy See Mick Ryans news item at ukclimbing.com Dated 18th September 2006 www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?date=200609 Also see October’s edition of climber magazine. www.climber.co.uk/main/default.asp And Dave Pickford's photographic essay "Images from a Granite Island (2)", 23rd October 2006 www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=796 Neil Gresham dws The Flying Dutchman, Lundy |
SEPTEMBER 2006 |
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DWS THAILAND | Matt Maddaloni's long awaited guide to DWS in Thailand is now available to download from his site! www.mattmaddaloni.com/Home folders/Thailand guidebook.htm |
SEPTEMBER 2006 |
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DWS Costa Blanca |
'Warm, Wet and Wild' Mike Robertson’s article on Deep Water Soloing in Costa Blanca is now available in October’s edition of Climber Magazine www.climber.co.uk/main/ |
SEPTEMBER 2006 |
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DWS Malta | New DVD and an article by Sonnie Trotter in the US magazine 'Rock and Ice' (Issue 151//June2006) www.mattmaddaloni.com/Expeditions%20folders/Malta/Malta.htm |
JUNE 2006 |
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Mallorca Psicobloc MiniGuide | The first official Deep Water Soloing guide to Mallorca is here!!! Download your copy today at the RockFax website www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=124 |
MARCH 2006 |
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Psicobloc 101 DVD | A new DVD about climbing in Mallorca www.udini.de |
MARCH 2006 |
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Dosage 3 DVD | The next instalment of the Dosage series includes a short film about Deep Water Soloing in Vietnam with Tim Emmett and Klem Loskot. www.bigupproductions.com |
FEBRUARY 2006 |
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Depthcharge DVD | Depthcharge is an excellent 60 min documentary capturing the events of the 2004 DWS Croatia trip. www.x1sports.com |
JULY 2005 |
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Rockfax Dorset guide | A new guide to climbing in Dorset, Also contains info
on DWS routes in the area. www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=100 |
JULY 2005 |
